Ender 3 vs Ender 3 Pro: Features, Differences, and Full Comparison
3D printers are very popular right now because they give people the limitless potential to create objects that have never been seen before. The Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro have been at the forefront of consumer 3D printing for many years now. The original Ender 3 allowed people worldwide to get into the hobby at an affordable price. But despite its popularity, the machine wasn’t perfect.
Therefore, Ender decided to launch a Pro model, which is very similar to the original but fixes some of its flaws. It’s important to keep in mind that both the Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro are starter printers, which means they won’t be perfect and that they do take a lot of tinkering. Nonetheless, these are some of the best units you can buy to get started with.
Ender 3 vs Ender 3 Pro: Side-by-Side Comparison
| Ender 3 | Ender 3 Pro | |
|---|---|---|
| Build Volume | 220 X 220 X 250 MM | 220 X 220 X 250 MM |
| Price | $189 | $219 |
| Build Plate | Build-Tak Sticker | Build-Tak Magnet |
| Power Supply | 24V Off-Brand | 24V Meanwell |
| Mainboard Model | V.4.2.2 | V.4.2.2 |
| Bed-Leveling | Manual | Manual |
Ender 3 vs Ender 3 Pro: What’s the Difference?
The main differences between the Ender 3 and the Ender 3 Pro are relatively minor. The reason for this is that the Ender 3 is very customizable. Meaning that if you purchase a stock Ender 3, you can purchase pieces later and upgrade it to the Pro model. However, if you do intend to purchase all the upgrades later, then you may want to just spend a little bit extra now and upgrade to the Pro.
Similarities
Since the Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro are so much alike, it’s best to look at their similarities and differences separately rather than make a side-by-side comparison of each. Both machines have a 220 X 220 X 250 mm bed. This is essentially the Max size that your 3D printer can be. The max bed temperature on these printers is also the same at 110 degrees Celsius.
Heat
- Resume Printing Function
- Easy and Quick Assembly
- Advanced Extruder Technology
- Safety Protected Power Supply
Bed temperature is important because many low-end 3D printers did not come with beds before the Ender 3 came along. Simply put, the heated bed helps keep the print stuck in place until it’s completed. Both machines also use Boden tubes rather than direct drives, which means the drive motor for the filament does not sit directly above the heating element.
Levelling
A major concern for many people is bed leveling. This tends to be one of the trickiest parts of operating a 3D printer and, unfortunately, neither the Ender 3 nor the Ender 3 Pro addressed this. Both use manual leveling systems, which you can upgrade later. The frame and the belt tensioning system are also identical on both models.
Internals
Another commonality between the Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro is their mainboards. Both machines use V.4.2.2, which is a good board, but it does make quite a bit of noise. The boards are both also controlled by a round knob, and their display is LCD. Since the internals are so similar, you can print with PLA, ABS, TPU, and PETG on each.
Differences
Onto the differences; the first thing you might notice is the build surface. The price difference between the two models is relatively low at only $30 between the two MSRP’s. The Pro model is listed as $219, whereas the original is $189. Because these machines are imported by several different companies, there may be some variations in price.
Build Surface
The stock Ender 3 uses a Build-Tak sticker which does a decent job of adhering to materials, but it almost does too well. You will eventually have difficulty removing the prints from this surface. The Pro version, on the other hand, comes with a magnetic mat that’s also a Build-Tak surface, but it pops off to easily remove the print.
Design
A minor change that is made on the Pro version is the location of the fan vent on the main board. The original Ender 3 had a vent on top of it, and the filament could easily fall in and clog it. The Pro version simply moves it from this awkward position. They also made a minor change to the Z-stop position bracket, so it’s more obvious where it goes when installing.
Power
Official Creality Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer
- Easy to remove the printing models after cooling
- Comes with a branded power supply, protecting your printer from unexpected power surges that can heat the hotbed to 110℃ in just 5 minutes
- Can perform resume printing starting from the previously recorded extruder's position should it suffer from an unexpected power outage
- Comes partially assembled
The final difference between the Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro is the power supply. Both printers come with a 24 Volt power supply, but the Pro model comes with a name-brand Mean Well. The regular version uses a lower-end supply.
Other Ender Printers
Creality makes a number of 3D printers beyond the very affordable Ender 3. The CR series is their line of higher-end printers, which come with a number of refined features if you want something that’s better out of the box. But if you really want a printer that’s perfect in every way and doesn’t require fine-tuning out of the box, then you may want to check out the Prusa i3.
Going back to Creality, there’s one model that you should really consider. That is the Ender 3 V2. It shares many similarities with the original, just like the Pro model, but it really takes the experience to the next level. The build surface also remains the same, as does the Max bed temperature; however, this printer upgrades to a glass bed.
The Max nozzle temp is higher, topping out at 255 degrees Celsius, but you’re still limited to the same materials. One of the biggest reasons to upgrade is the mainboard which still uses the V.4.2.2, but a refined version of it that has silent drivers.
The display is also very different, as it uses full-color HD which is easier to navigate. The downside is that it still has manual bed leveling and an even higher MSRP of $262.
Worthwhile Mods
With the cheap price of the Ender 3, there are some limitations you must overcome. The first of which is the bed size, which is relatively small but on par with other low-priced 3D printers. For certain objects, there will be no getting around the limited bed size, but you can actually print smaller models and glue them together when complete.
This is actually beneficial in many cases because you don’t have to worry about a large, failed print. Another limitation of these lower-end printers is that they only run one filament at a time.
Meaning that if you do want to switch colors, you have to program the file to stop at a specific point, swap out the filaments, and start again. The easiest way to handle this is simply to paint the model once complete.
Finally, the biggest problem that plagues all Ender 3 printers is manual bed leveling. Part of the problem is that the aluminum beds can actually warp with heat making it impossible to level. To overcome this, you can add an automatic bed leveling sensor which will compensate for the deviations.
3D Printer Basics
If you’re just getting started with 3D printing, then it’s a good idea to take some time to learn more about the technology. There are two primary methods of 3D printing for consumers. The first is FDM, which stands for fused deposition modeling and is what the Ender 3 does. The other method is resin printing, but that is a little more complicated because it involves messy liquids and post-processing.
With FDM printing, a spool of plastic filament is run through the printer nozzle at a high temperature, which melts it. The melted plastic is deposited on the build plate, and the motors drive the nozzle around to create the design. Very thin layers are applied at a time and, eventually, you get a 3D model.
It’s very important to understand, however, that this doesn’t work by magic and some computer knowledge is necessary. The good news is that sites like Thingiverse exist, where you can download models that other people have already made. Additionally, you can start making your own models with free software found on the Internet.
Ender 3 vs Ender 3 Pro: 5 Must-Know Facts
- Both the Ender 3 and the Ender 3 Pro have the same build volume.
- The Ender 3 Pro has a removable magnetic bed, which makes removing prints easier.
- The Ender 3 Pro has an upgraded Meanwell power supply.
- You can upgrade the Ender 3 with Ender 3 Pro parts later.
- The Ender 3 V2 offers even better upgrades with a color display and silent mainboard.
Ender 3 vs Ender 3 Pro: Which One Is Better? Which One Should You Use?
The Ender 3 is certainly not the best 3D printer on the market. However, it is definitely the best 3D printer in its price range. The amount of value is astounding, and you can easily justify the purchase for making household objects. But the Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro are so close together that it’s difficult to say which you should purchase.
The Ender 3 Pro is likely the best choice for most people. If both machines are at MSRP, then it is definitely worth the $30 upgrade. The vast majority of Ender 3 owners do decide to upgrade the bed, and that alone nearly covers the price difference.
But what really stands out is the upgraded power supply, since this is something you will likely never need to upgrade on the machine. The relocated vent and slightly modified Z-stop will also help prevent headaches later.
With all that in mind, if you do come across an Ender 3 at an excellent price, then don’t hesitate to pick it up. You can always customize either machine the way you like it at a later date. The really great thing about the Ender 3 is that there are so many parts available, and it is easily customizable.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can you print with metal on an Ender 3?
No, some 3D printers do support partial metal filaments, but the Ender 3 does not. The printers that do support metal filaments are usually very expensive because they require a lot of heat to melt it properly.
What is the best filament to use on an Ender 3?
The best filament to use will largely depend on the project you are working on. But, in general, PLA or PLA tends to be most new users’ go-to option because it is versatile and easy to get a good print with. Try to stick with the same type and brand of filament until you’ve mastered the settings and fine-tuning your printer.
What do you need to buy with an Ender 3?
The only extra thing that you need to purchase is filament. The Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro come with everything else that you need to get started. Eventually, you will want to purchase extra nozzles and other parts, like belts, to prevent downtime.
Can you upgrade the Ender 3 to a larger bed?
No, the Ender 3’s print size is limited by its bed. In turn, the bed is limited by the machine’s frame, which means you would have to rebuild the printer completely. Instead, check out one of Creality’s large printers, like the Ender 5 Plus.
Why are some 3D printers fully-enclosed?
There are a few reasons why high-end 3D printers use an enclosure, but the main reason is to keep the print warm, which helps to prevent warping. It also keeps the print area clean and free from dirt or debris that could impact the print quality.
